Gilt elegance
LeGant Zenith
Quick facts
Brand: Zenith for Montgomery Ward (LeGant)
Model: Chronograph 146HP
Reference: AH2711
Year: 1968
Case: Stainless steel, 38mm
Caliber: 146HP, manual wound
What about it
The AH2711 reference stands out as a remarkable piece of vintage watchmaking
Quoting from Hodinkee
On Montgomery Ward's 1968 Christmas catalog, is a "LeGant Swiss-made 17-jewel chronograph" for the price of $79.95. This chronograph features a Zenith-made movement, a Zenith star caseback, and a star on the dial but is stamped "Montgomery Ward" on the movement and inside caseback. Examples are not common, but Zenith looks to have sold an identical watch with its own name on the dial and movement. This all leads to the likely conclusion that Zenith built the watch in their Swiss factory on contract for Montgomery Ward and the "LeGant" brand.
With a 38mm diameter, the stainless steel water-resistant case was oversized for its time yet remains well-proportioned by modern standards. The reverse panda dial layout, featuring a glossy black dial and textured white sub-registers, embodies the classic design of 1960s sports chronographs, exhibiting excellent finishing. Notably, the dial's font and arrangement bear a striking resemblance to the Movado M95 reverse panda. This connection makes sense given that Movado and Zenith were in the final stages of formalizing a merger, officially established in 1969, likely sourcing dials from the same Swiss supplier.
LeGant, conceived as a playful take on the word 'elegant,' was developed as an in-house or in-catalog brand exclusively for Montgomery Ward. This department store giant was among the mid-20th century's largest catalog and department store companies in US.
38
Diametermm
20
Lug widthmm
18000
Frequencyvph
44
Power h
Plastic
Crystal
Caliber 146 by Martel
The manual wind caliber 146H was created by Martel ebauches. It was also used by Universal Geneve. Later on the movement was upgraded to the caliber 146HP in the mid 1960's. In 1960 Zenith acquired Martel Watch Co. — although there is debate whether it was 1958, 1959, or 1960 — making sure that it could produce chronograph movements “in-house.” The Caliber 146 was one of those movements produced in-house. But it is actually a family of movements that stood out because of its solid construction. On top of that, it was easy to produce in different sizes. The difference between the caliber 146H and 146HP was a series of improvements that Zenith made.
What is a 'gilt' dial
During the 1950s and 1960s, numerous watch brands crafted gilt dials for their timepieces. Commonly recognized by their deep black dials adorned with gold-hued text, these dials exude a warm and undeniably vintage appeal, showcasing the technique's versatility. However, 'gilt' is one of those terms - much like 'patina', 'tropical', and several others - that might be more frequently used in the watch world than it is accurately understood or defined.
The distinctive warm appearance of gilt dials, regardless of the brand, can be highly sought after and prized by collectors. However, it's crucial to comprehend the diverse applications of the term 'gilt' to accurately assess and appreciate these dials.
Market
Availability: Ultra rare
0 watches for sale
Pricing: 5,000+ €
(Dec 2023)
References
Well, I have some links above in texts, so nothing to add here!
Related
Straps
Some recommended strap options for this watch. External links to their webshops.
Racing Black Speedy
Bulang & Sons
€120,00
